Fine tuning the bail

We think most necklaces have a bail problem. So we spent 5 drafts fixing ours.

The problem with big bails

One of our necklace pet peeves is a big loose bail. If it doesn't match the pendant perfectly, it throws the whole thing off. It will take even an attractive pendant and chain down to a 7/10. It looks cheaper because it is cheaper (to buy the bail in bulk rather than design one that suits each pendant design).

Big loose bail pros

• The hole is big enough to allow the pendant to slide off the end of the chain. Good if you want to switch out the chain.

• They add an extra joint, so the pendant can sit over a curved surface better. This is more significant for big or heavy pendants.

Big loose bail cons:

• The bail is too large for a dainty pendant. It's a mismatch that you often see in mass-market or "handmade" jewelry, since oftentimes the only part that is designed is the pendant itself

• When the bail is just a jump ring. Most of the time this looks lazy, unless the necklace design is deliberately utilitarian or brutalist (for example, on a "tag-style" look is ok)

• The looseness from the big hole bail and extra joint makes the pendant flop around more. Especially if you're moving around a lot.

• Also contributes to that thing where the pendant is swirling around your neck, and you have to fix it more often.

Uh, so yeah. We're super picky about the bail.

Designing a cuter bail

Since we wanted to design dainty jewelry specifically for girls who like to move, we decided to spend an extra week and 5 extra drafts making the bail perfect. Some people would say this is overkill but we know the girl we're designing for would definitely notice. After all, a princess would notice a pea under her mattress.

1. We started with the decision to make the part of the pendant casting, so the two are one, eliminating the jiggliness of a loose bail.

2. Initially, we started with a big hole on the bail so the pendant could still slide off the chain. Then we realized, no one asked for that. And a tight bail looks more designer, signals that the chain was finished only after the pendant has been strung on, which requires special equipment and tooling Not like a stock charm on a stock chain. Also bonus, this way the whole piece stays consistent in color. We know you agree there's nothing worse than a mismatch in chain and pendant color.

3. Once we decided to shrink the hole, another problem remained: now the stem was too long. It was suddenly at risk of looking too french romantic (in a bad way). Too quirky-girl, not enough mean-girl.

4. So we worked a total redraft of the bail, taking the hole shape from oval → round, making it juust wide enough to thread the unfinished chain through. 

5. But this created a new issue. Now the back of the bail sticks out further than the back of the charm which was a comfort risk. Our solution: tilt the bail slightly forward. Now the entire back of the pendant is round and flush. Phew!

Last tweak: thick vs thin?

We tried a thinner bail, which seemed more "correct" as a large form up close, but factoring the chain in, the plumper bail is much better. The secret is the optical illusion: a slightly thicker bail makes the pendant look like it sits closer to the chain, so the necklace is tighter as a whole. A pendant seated close to the chain is the dream, it's how necklaces are always drawn on cartoon characters.

Check out the final result here.